After an enormous breakfast, heading out through the rather dismal north Essex countryside, under a leaden sky, too warm and humid to want any sleeves, but chill while cycling. An a lot of slopes covered with gravelly alluvium that made more sense to push up.
Things improved a bit north of Hadleigh, as I cycled past vast fields where much-delayed harvesting was going on. Stopped for a pint of Explorer at the Bell in Kersey, then a pint of Sundance at the Lindsey Rose, in Lindsey Tye (where the clientele was women talking about horses and getting trainers and jockeys), and then to the Peacock in Chelsworth, where the barmaid remarked on the cunning map-holder gadget on the bike, and served a pint of Wherry. Made a save against the (seemingly excellent) food while hearing paeans about the chips, and the sausages made to the landlord's recipe (with proper saltpetre cured skins).
Get into the Angel at Lavenham, and a much-needed shower; also munch the rest of yesterday's packed lunch and feel quite full. Wander around to take photos, then dine at about 7:30 -- grilled goat's cheese with mixed leaves and balsamic dressing, and a heroic chunk of steak and ale pie. Admit defeat, and finish with just coffee.
The plumbing here detonates at random intervals all night; and the revellers on the forecourt below the window carry on till nigh midnight.